Staple family

Noodles East

Wheat noodles, broth, and a two-minute window.

Noodles East dishes, photographed from above

Noodle dishes are won or lost in the gap between the pot and the bowl. The noodles keep cooking while you drain them, while you fetch a spoon, while the broth is still being ladled. This chapter covers the quick soup-noodle suppers, the oil-based tosses that need no broth at all, and the longer braise that turns a tough cut of beef into a weekend project. Read the timing notes once and the rest becomes instinct.

In this chapter

23 recipes

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A wide shallow pan of springy braised noodles tangled with dark green long bean segments and browned strips of pork, glossy with soy-coloured sauce.

Braised Noodles with Long Beans and Pork

Fresh wheat noodles are layered over a shallow braise of pork and long beans, then steamed in the trapped steam until they drink up the sauce and stay springy rather than soggy.

37 minSimmerMedium
A mound of glossy stir-fried noodles with wilted cabbage and browned minced pork, centred by a bright, runny egg yolk that breaks into a golden sauce.

Cabbage and Pork Noodles with Egg Yolk

Chewy wheat noodles are tossed with softened cabbage and savoury minced pork, then finished off the heat with a raw egg yolk that melts into a rich, glossy coating on every strand.

26 minStir-fryMedium
A deep bowl of milky, opaque broth with soft wheat noodles and scattered nubs of carrot, mushroom and green leaves, finished with a swirl of egg and scallions.

Cloudy Vegetable Noodle Soup

Hard-boiling softened vegetables with a beaten egg turns clear water into a pale, milky broth; tender noodles and greens simmer in it for a light yet creamy-tasting bowl with no dairy at all.

28 minBoilEasy
A wide bowl of clear golden broth with thin noodles, translucent half-moons of daikon and orange carrot coins, scattered with scallions and a few ginger threads.

Daikon and Carrot Broth Noodles

Long, gentle simmering draws a quiet sweetness from daikon and carrot into a clear broth; thin noodles and a little soy are added at the end so the vegetables stay the main flavour.

35 minSimmerEasy
A tangle of translucent glass noodles slicked with a ruddy, spicy sauce, speckled with browned minced pork and flecks of chilli, scattered with bright green scallions.

Glass Noodles with Minced Pork Ants Climbing A Tree

Soaked cellophane noodles are tossed with browned minced pork and a chilli-soy sauce until every strand is coated and the meat clings to them, which is how the dish gets its name.

24 minStir-fryMedium
A wide pot of soft, pale gold napa cabbage layered with glossy, translucent sweet potato noodles in a light amber braising liquid, dotted with shiitake slices and scallions.

Napa Cabbage Stewed with Sweet Potato Noodles

Napa cabbage is stewed until silky and sweet, then chewy sweet potato noodles are folded into the shallow broth so they soak up the soy-scented liquid without losing their springy bite.

37 minSimmerEasy
A pale bowl of thin noodles with soft, jade-green luffa batons and clusters of small shimeji mushrooms in a light, glossy broth, scattered with scallions and ginger threads.

Noodles with Luffa and Shimeji

Luffa softens into a silky, mildly sweet vegetable while shimeji stays faintly crisp; thin noodles are folded into their light gingery broth for a gentle, quick bowl.

26 minSimmerEasy
A heaped plate of golden stir-fried noodles ribboned with soft scrambled egg, penny-round slices of browned sausage and bright green scallions, glossy with a light soy glaze.

Quick Fried Noodles with Egg and Sausage

Boiled noodles are tossed in a hot wok with set egg curds and browned sausage coins, then seasoned with a short soy glaze for a fast supper built from pantry staples.

18 minStir-fryEasy
A deep bowl of thin wheat noodles under hand-shredded chicken, wilted greens and a clear golden broth with scallion curls.

Shredded Chicken and Greens Noodles

Thin wheat noodles, poached chicken torn into threads and quick-wilted greens share a light ginger broth; the whole bowl comes together in one pot in under half an hour.

26 minBoilEasy
A wide bowl of rice noodles tossed with pink curled shrimp, small cauliflower florets and flecks of green herb in a light glossy sauce.

Shrimp and Cauliflower Noodles

Rice noodles, sweet shrimp and bite-size cauliflower florets meet in a hot wok with garlic and a thin soy glaze, so the florets keep a faint crunch against the soft strands.

27 minStir-fryMedium
A shallow bowl of tender, sauce-coated noodles with soft carrot and cabbage shreds and pale yellow ribbons of egg folded through.

Soft Vegetable and Egg Noodles

Tender noodles are gently simmered with sweet carrot and cabbage until everything softens, then folded with soft egg ribbons for a mild, easy bowl that suits small appetites.

25 minSimmerEasy
A steamer plate of halved baby cabbage fanned under a tangle of glass vermicelli, speckled with golden garlic and a glossy soy drizzle.

Steamed Baby Cabbage with Garlic and Vermicelli

Halved baby cabbage steams under a nest of glass vermicelli and fried garlic, so the leaves turn silky while the noodles soak up a light, savoury soy dressing.

24 minSteamEasy
A round plate of butterflied prawns in the shell, each topped with a coil of glass vermicelli and golden garlic, steaming in a shallow pool of soy broth.

Steamed Prawns with Garlic and Vermicelli

Butterflied prawns steam on a bed of glass vermicelli with a heavy garlic and soy drizzle, so the noodles drink up the sweet shellfish juices as they cook.

23 minSteamMedium
A hot skillet of wok-tossed cabbage shreds tangled with glass vermicelli and broad folds of golden egg, flecked with scallion.

Stir Fried Cabbage with Vermicelli and Egg

Shredded cabbage is stir-fried until sweet and just tender, then tossed with soaked vermicelli and soft egg folds for a cheap, fast supper with a mix of silky noodles and still-crisp leaves.

20 minStir-fryEasy
A red-orange tomato broth studded with soft, irregular flour drops and drifting ribbons of pale egg, finished with chopped scallion.

Tomato and Egg Soup with Flour Drops

Ripe tomatoes are simmered into a light broth, then tiny flour-and-water drops and beaten egg are slipped in to make a soft, spoonable soup with tender little dumplings in every mouthful.

25 minSimmerEasy
A deep bowl of thin noodles in a clear red tomato broth with wilted spinach leaves and curls of egg, topped with scallion.

Tomato and Spinach Noodle Soup

A light tomato broth, thin wheat noodles and a handful of spinach come together quickly, with beaten egg stirred in at the end for soft, pale ribbons.

25 minSimmerEasy
A shallow bowl of pale, sauce-coated noodles under cabbage that has been cooked down until silky and translucent, with soft egg and scallion.

Very Soft Cabbage Noodles

Cabbage is simmered until completely soft and sweet, then folded through tender noodles with a light soy glaze for a gentle, easy-to-eat bowl with no crunch left in the leaves.

28 minSimmerEasy
A deep bowl of thin wheat noodles in brick-red tomato broth with pale egg ribbons, wilted greens and sliced scallions

Tomato and Egg Noodle Soup

Wheat noodles in a light tomato broth with soft egg ribbons and wilted greens, the tomatoes cooked down just enough to sweeten the soup without turning it heavy.

25 minBoilEasy
A shallow bowl of glossy amber-brown noodles tangled with crisp dark scallion threads and a sheen of fragrant oil

Scallion Oil Noodles

Wheat noodles tossed with slowly fried scallions, their amber oil and a soy-sugar glaze, finished with crisp dark green scallion threads and a sharp, savoury smell.

30 minSimmerMedium
A wide bowl of thick wheat noodles under a dark glossy pork sauce, with separate piles of cucumber, carrot, sprouts and scallions

Zhajiang Noodles with Soybean Paste

Thick wheat noodles under a dark, glossy sauce of minced pork and fermented soybean paste fried slowly until the oil separates, with cool crisp vegetable strips on top.

45 minSimmerMedium
A large bowl of dark clear beef broth with wheat noodles, browned beef cubes, wilted greens, scallions and a red slick of chilli oil

Braised Beef Noodle Soup

Beef shank braised for two hours with ginger, soy and star anise until the slices hold their shape but yield to a chopstick, served over noodles in the dark broth.

140 minSimmerAmbitious
A shallow bowl of glossy pale brown cold noodles with a red chilli oil streak, crisp cucumber and carrot strips and sesame seeds

Cold Sesame Noodles

Chilled wheat noodles coated in a thin, tangy sesame-soy dressing with garlic and chilli oil, topped with crisp cucumber and carrot strips for a cool, chewy bowl.

18 minBoilEasy
A heaped plate of golden-brown stir-fried egg noodles with chicken strips, shredded cabbage, carrot, bean sprouts and scallions

Weeknight Chow Mein

Egg noodles stir-fried in a hot wok with shredded chicken, cabbage and carrot until the edges catch a little brown, all coated in a light soy and oyster sauce glaze.

27 minStir-fryEasy
Technique note · 6 min read

Boiling Noodles and Pasta Well

Salt, water volume, the two-minute window and the starchy cooking liquid that most home cooks pour down the sink.

Other staple families

Cooking noodles at home

The recipes above share a small set of ingredients and one or two pieces of equipment, so it is worth cooking them in sequence rather than at random. Make the simplest one first — it tells you how your pan, your flour or your rice behaves — then move on to the versions that build on it. If you are working from what is already in the kitchen, the full recipe index can filter every chapter at once by ingredient, equipment and time.